Brrrrr

Definitely the coldest spot on the itinerary, I'm wearing all my clothes, but now I see that the sun is out and it looks like a comfortable day. We're on a residential and business street, at 5 this morning, women begin gathering right out front of the house to set up and sell fresh meet on some tables right on the street. they were doing a brisk business by 7am, as it's the last day to buy because of at least two days of holiday coming right up.

We had to make two trips to the police station yesterday, one for the city cops, then for the neighborhood cops, each of whom needs to have a copy of my passport and visa, along with a signed statement from my hosts that they are responsible for my actions. I had to sign that as well. All of the officers seem to be young men in uniform, laboring away for the Party. They were pleasant about it, especially the second guy, who had us come down there at 9:30 last night to do the paperwork. For a woman who uses a wheelchair, that meant getting lifted onto the back of her mom's motorcycle, while here two year old is crying because he doesn't want mom to go without him. I rode on the back of the cousin's bike as we went down to the station. Sigh...

There is no internet in this town, so I'm on Lan Anhs computer with some kind of wireless hookup. It's not totally reliable, and often the cursor starts flipping on to a different line of text, oh well, we make the best. Her mom is really a cool woman, likely unhappy because her husband passed away suddenly last summer and this is the first Tet without him. But she is 56, beautiful, gracious and kind, riding her motorcycle on errands, keeping the house and family together. She is retired from her job where she worked as an accountant in a factory, I just found. out. It's touching to be in the presence of someone my own age who was on the opposite side during the debacle in the 60s and 70s. I think of that little napalm girl whose photo is burned into our psyches from that period, and yeah, she could be that person... but she's not. But that's how my mind goes sometimes.

The house I'm staying in is where Lan Anh and her sisters grew up, 2 stories, a 10 meter across fish pond in the back, I wonder who built that? The TV is on, some kind of children's show for the little guy, who is incredibly precious and precocious. a total musician the way he plays with my guitar. He's all over me, smiling and messing around and talking to me. I'm in love.

In the back patio, there is the little citrus tree which is the symbol of the holiday, everyone was picking one up yesterday to bring home for the celebration. I asked if I could pay at least for the gas of the trip that they made to come pick me up at the airport, and Lan Anh says the best was is tomorrow when we share 'lucky money', not sure how it works, but I'll certainly follow her lead on this, and will be able to contribute tomorrow. Meanwhile I had a phenomenal meal last night, with many delicious treats, and the party continues tonights.

On the kids show, the children are doing a new year's ballet dance all dressed in the red and yellow Party colors. Many houses fly the flag, yellow star on a red background. There's one flying at this house.

There seems to be not one tourist face except mine, which is really a pleasure after being in the tourist bubble since I arrived. Now I'm totally immersed, not understanding much, but feeling quite content and well taken care of. The folks last night were very happy to include me in the drinking and revelry, and her uncle made the comment several times that it was wonderful that Lan Anh came to America, and because she was so special, her american host came all the way to Vietnam to see her, which is true. He was acknowledging his niece, and she certainly deserves the praise, as she is a marvelous person, and I'm blessed to be her 'Rich Daddy'. (our little joke)

Now I'll get off the computer and see if there is something I can do to contribute, shuck corn, gather wood, I have no idea, but I want to offer and not be 'no, you're the guest' all the time I'm here. We shall see. Feeling major gratitude for this window and this opportunity in the north of Vietnam.

Vietnam and healing

This was worth the whole trip in a way, to sit and celebrate with 12 Vietnamese friends, eating and drinking, much laughter, next to no English being spoken on the night before Tet. I'm here at Lan Anh's mothers house in a town north of Hanoi, and this evening we had a celebration dinner with the close relatives, uncles, brothers in law, aunts, cousins. the food was incredible, the company outstanding and the alcohol was flowing as we were downing small shots of vodka, wine and beer as part of the bonding ritual.

They liked me a lot, and I was very moved to be in this environment, sharing good times with our former enemies. At a certain point, I wanted to make a little speech, which I did, and it was along the lines of 'when I was 16 and our country was at war with Vietnam, I went to Washington to protest. When I was 18 I was drafted and they wanted me to come fight here, but I wouldn't. Most all of the Americans of my age feel guilty about what our country did here, because we were wrong. And it means so much to me to be here and sharing this time with you.

They were very appreciative, and Lan Anh's mother '56' years old added that our government should make reparations to all the Vietnamese who were damaged by agent orange. But they totally appreciated my sentiment, and it was a beautiful thing. I need to cut this short as Lan Anh and I have to go again to the police station to let them know that I'm staying here in the village. It's a bit 'gestapo' in that regard, but more on that later... we must show our papers....