So I've been on the road for a month now, and now that I'm pretty firmly ensconced in Chiang Mai, the first thing that comes to mind is that it doesn't feel like traveling at this point. The first few weeks, yeah, different places, different scenes, crossing borders, looking for lodging, but now, it's more like I'm a snowbird who has landed in his winter retreat. Might as well be Scottsdale... no, that's not true, but there's definitely a comfort level and a lack of adventure that's taking over now.
Which isn't a bad thing, mind you, merely different, and I guess that it's not the first time I've decided to stick somewhere and go deeper, rather than pack the pack day after day in search of the new. First time I went to Costa Rica, I had heard about this place called Montezuma on the west coast that was some kind of magnet for the 'international freak set' (in which I fit in quite comfortably). I made it my first stop, and it was my last stop as well that time around. Hell it had everything, cheap lodging, interesting people, a phenomenal waterfall ten minutes walk away so I just hung out, made friends, made music on my accordion (no less), and that was my trip, and it was awesome. Hang on, that's not exactly true, I did more traveling than that, come to think of it, but the majority of the time was there. Next time I went back to CR I left the accordion behind which made it easier to get around, and I had a guitar with me. (same one I've got on this trip, it's my road axe and it's seen some stuff).
But the point is that even though there are many adventures that I'm missing by staying in one spot, there's a lot to be said for getting to know a place more intimitely, so that seems to be the plan for this period of time. And the delight is that I still have three months to be in Asia, so there is time for plenty of wandering about. It'll all turn out how it turns out, and I'm not concerned in the slightest. For now, I'm here, I'm digging it immensely, so there's absolutely no rush to be anywhere else. Even if there's that little voice that says, 'hey man, your friends are trucking through Burma or cruising the temples of Angkor Wat in Cambodia'. Me, I'm happy as a clam here in Chiang Mai. Question, who ever determined that clams were happy?
I had an interesting interaction this morning at the coffee place around the corner from Royal Guest House where I stay. I go for my cappucino every morning and have been telling the owner that I'm gonna take my first class in Thai, and next time I order coffee, I'm doing it in her language. So I showed up this morning all ready with a sentence or two, and she wasn't there. A different person was. And I said my piece and she understood and made the drink. And I asked for a little sugar and she understood and helped me with the pronunciation. A tiny little interaction like that, yet it felt huge on some level, at least for me. Because for the first time, I took a step in the direction of the culture and away from being one more Farang on holiday who doesn't give a shit. There was something in her interaction back to me that was different. She was helpful there was just a different feel to it, some kind of respect that went both ways. It's a really small thing that's a really big thing somehow.
It brings up a conversation that I had last night with John and his partner Kui (pronounced key) when we were out for dinner. I was John's guest as he was treating me to thank me for being part of his big party and for writing that song for them. (we recorded it and he put it up on Youtube if you're interested....)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RzJKFNrgFnc&feature=youtu.be
The subject was about the confusion about the interactions that take place between Farang and locals. I said that if I was a Thai guy, I'd be pissed off that there were all these foreigners coming in to 'buy the women' for an hour a few days, whatever. There's something tawdry about it, very tawdry, similar to the feeling I'd get after going to a strip club (very rarely, mind you) and then being out on the street and expecting the women I see to start taking off their clothes. There's a jaded thing that happens when you become desensitized, and I was wondering about how that manifests over here. Kui was animated in her response. She hates the Farang, she hates when they hit on her and expect her to be someone they can buy. She's a classy woman, beautiful, educated, owns her own business and is anything but one of 'those girls', yet she is often treated like a commodity. And naturally she's got a lot of feeling about that.
John's point was that 90 percent of the foreign men here are crass like that, and it's up to the 10 percent who are respectful to represent well, learn the language, show some class, balance the scales as much as possible. It makes for a lot of confusion and conflicting drives inside of me, because I'm in the 10 percent (I hope) but there's a part of me that's definitely in the 90 as well, in a respectful way of course, but damn, I've had such a lousy year of intimacy and my body is in need of serious attention, sorry, it's true, so there's a lot to try and figure out.
For a certain part of the population, Farang are the quarry, we're in great demand, for the money, for the possible ticket to an easier life, so there are women out there who would love to get my attention, as it were. It's a nice position to be in, or is it? That's the question and I don't sense a simple answer. For now, I'll be very happy with some great Thai massage and continuing to swim, make music, interact with my friends, read and write. And the rest will probably take care of itself.
Tonight I'm gonna go to a tango class, believe it or not. John says there is a beginning class that's just gotten underway and I should DEFINITELY come. I'm dying to dance and even though it's been a long time since I did tango, and I don't have any dance shoes here, I'm going and I'll dance in my socks, meet some new people, have a new experience. Before that I have a date with this guy Toby, who is a brilliant linguist, (yes, Soberman, he's cunning) speaks over a dozen languages and we've made a good connection at the local hangout. He's gonna show me some places that do real Thai massage, (not 'do you want me to be your girlfriend' massage) and I'll get some language tips from him as well. He's coming by my place in 45 minutes and we'll go from there.
Feeling lucky to be here...
Language School
What a blast to finally make it to my first class in Thai language. It doesn't hurt that the teacher is a gorgeous woman who smiles easily and has a sense of humor and of style, and oh yeah, she's a good teacher too. There are 5 of us in the class, everyone probably in their 50s and up, and I got a great vibe from the first session. I think this kind of thing is right in my musician's wheel house, having to listen carefully and try to duplicate what I'm hearing. Some of the sounds are peculiar to our normal way of expressing, but I'm gonna practice and see what I can accomplish in a short amount of time. Very psyched by the first two hour session.
And in a similar way, I've been feeling so blessed by music lately. Yesterday I had a two hour slot with nothing on the agenda, and had a hankering to try and come up with something new, the next tune as it were. Grabbed the guitar, messed around for a bit to no avail, then tried a new tack. Just singing something, singing a melody that came into my head. Something showed up more or less instantly, as if those melodies are just floating around out there (which they are apparently), and fortunately, I have the skill to put some chords to it. It was just a starting point, a little jazzy thing in a mid-tempo, nothing too out there. So I lay in the chords and get comfortable with that opening section.
Then it's a question of finding a bridge that is different, makes sense, feels natural etc, and it's pretty much a puzzle at that point, seeing what fits, both mathematically and artistically, and damn, that is a pleasurable experience for the likes of me. The bridge I picked kind of reminds me of a Billy Joel move, at least at the beginning, and then I take it through a few modulations a la (How High the Moon), and finally comes the part where I have to craft a turnaround that gets me back to the opening motif. And that's where all of the Tin Pan Alley style knowledge comes to the fore, because at this point I can get from a point A to a point B in any number of ways; it's just a question of finding the one that feels right. I made a few passes at it and then settled on a turnaround that sounded good and voila, a tune is born.
It kind of brings up that notion of 'freedom' emerging from rules and discipline, because it's very liberating to have the skill set which allows me to navigate around music in a way that sounds good and makes sense. Yeah, it's been done before, by the likes of Gershwin and Porter and Berlin and all those cats whose craftsmanship created the 'American Song Book' which is where I feel most comfortable. Add some good words and you've got something that people are drawn to, can sing along with, (post on their Facebook etc). I do feel blessed to be able to participate on the level that I've achieved. I haven't mastered a ton in my life, but in this area, can I say I'm a master songwriter? I think so. And of course in saying that, I instinctively cringe against the folks who would call me egotistical or worse. Hey whatever... I'm not wanting to lord it over anybody. I'm just grateful to be able to keep doing it and finding new wrinkles. It doesn't seem to run out of steam...
I had a very sweet interaction with M for the last two days, as she got an extra day off due to the King's birthday yesterday. There is a lot of love there and some sadness as well because it doesn't seem possible that we are going to be all that for each other. Different life styles, different histories, different cultures and all, I have a tremendous empathy for her; she had a really difficult childhood and her adult life is no picnic either. She feels very much alone, so the fact that she goes out drinking with her friends after work, has a lot to do with not wanting to go and stay alone in her crappy apartment. She feels like she doesn't have friends or a community, save her drinking buddies, and my heart does truly ache for her. And for myeelf probably too, because I don't think I have the wherewithall to 'save' her and make it all better. I know my history and my tendencies, and I'd be a bad gamble, so like I say, there was some sadness along with the beauty. Now she's back into her work schedule so I won't be hanging with her until perhaps next weekend. I just don't see myself doing the late night, wait for M,3am crawl this year. But I'm really glad that we connected. It was some kind of confirmation of the fact that yeah, it's a real connection not just a physical thing, though God knows, that is pretty compelling stuff. (Good to be back in Thailand, my body appreciates it on a lot of levels).
And in a similar way, I've been feeling so blessed by music lately. Yesterday I had a two hour slot with nothing on the agenda, and had a hankering to try and come up with something new, the next tune as it were. Grabbed the guitar, messed around for a bit to no avail, then tried a new tack. Just singing something, singing a melody that came into my head. Something showed up more or less instantly, as if those melodies are just floating around out there (which they are apparently), and fortunately, I have the skill to put some chords to it. It was just a starting point, a little jazzy thing in a mid-tempo, nothing too out there. So I lay in the chords and get comfortable with that opening section.
Then it's a question of finding a bridge that is different, makes sense, feels natural etc, and it's pretty much a puzzle at that point, seeing what fits, both mathematically and artistically, and damn, that is a pleasurable experience for the likes of me. The bridge I picked kind of reminds me of a Billy Joel move, at least at the beginning, and then I take it through a few modulations a la (How High the Moon), and finally comes the part where I have to craft a turnaround that gets me back to the opening motif. And that's where all of the Tin Pan Alley style knowledge comes to the fore, because at this point I can get from a point A to a point B in any number of ways; it's just a question of finding the one that feels right. I made a few passes at it and then settled on a turnaround that sounded good and voila, a tune is born.
It kind of brings up that notion of 'freedom' emerging from rules and discipline, because it's very liberating to have the skill set which allows me to navigate around music in a way that sounds good and makes sense. Yeah, it's been done before, by the likes of Gershwin and Porter and Berlin and all those cats whose craftsmanship created the 'American Song Book' which is where I feel most comfortable. Add some good words and you've got something that people are drawn to, can sing along with, (post on their Facebook etc). I do feel blessed to be able to participate on the level that I've achieved. I haven't mastered a ton in my life, but in this area, can I say I'm a master songwriter? I think so. And of course in saying that, I instinctively cringe against the folks who would call me egotistical or worse. Hey whatever... I'm not wanting to lord it over anybody. I'm just grateful to be able to keep doing it and finding new wrinkles. It doesn't seem to run out of steam...
I had a very sweet interaction with M for the last two days, as she got an extra day off due to the King's birthday yesterday. There is a lot of love there and some sadness as well because it doesn't seem possible that we are going to be all that for each other. Different life styles, different histories, different cultures and all, I have a tremendous empathy for her; she had a really difficult childhood and her adult life is no picnic either. She feels very much alone, so the fact that she goes out drinking with her friends after work, has a lot to do with not wanting to go and stay alone in her crappy apartment. She feels like she doesn't have friends or a community, save her drinking buddies, and my heart does truly ache for her. And for myeelf probably too, because I don't think I have the wherewithall to 'save' her and make it all better. I know my history and my tendencies, and I'd be a bad gamble, so like I say, there was some sadness along with the beauty. Now she's back into her work schedule so I won't be hanging with her until perhaps next weekend. I just don't see myself doing the late night, wait for M,3am crawl this year. But I'm really glad that we connected. It was some kind of confirmation of the fact that yeah, it's a real connection not just a physical thing, though God knows, that is pretty compelling stuff. (Good to be back in Thailand, my body appreciates it on a lot of levels).
The Classics....
One of the great things about being on the road is the fact that I do ten times as much reading as in 'real life'. Once again it's the lack of distractions that opens up the day and offers time for reading, writing, reflection, working out, music, meeting people, learning. (Damn, I'd make a great 'retired person', and as I tend to say, 'I'll never have enough money for a retirement, so I might as well retire now') And that's kind of how my life feels, not that I was ever in the rat race per se, Eugene, Oregon doesn't quite fit the bill, but there's a hell of a lot to be said for getting out of America and seeing how things look from a different perspective. For starters, you don't have the noise machine of Entertainment Tonight, Fox News, USA today etc filling your brain with the corporate mind-fuck of useless trivia that passes for 'news'. The medium is the message and the message is mind-control. And by the transitive property, I suppose that the medium equals mind-control.... (now more than ever)
When I was in Georgetown last week, I needed a new book to read, so I asked around and found a crazy bookstore that was upstairs over a busy marketplace. There were stacks of English books in no particular order, so I took a look to see if anything was interesting and reasonable priced. The one that jumped out was 'Sons and Lovers' by DH Lawrence, and author I've certainly heard of but have never read, and the price of 5 ringets ($1.70) was just right. A lot of times, places will charge more than the original price of the book, which seems weird, but I guess they can get away with it if people are desperate enough for a book. So I grabbed the Lawrence book, and holy crap, the guy is an amazing writer. His prose is so descriptive, so unique, and I'm sure I'd never get into it were I back home with a computer and television tempting me to abdicate my brain and tune in. At the very least, I understand better why Lawrence is one of the greats. (who knew?) Man, if I could write like that... he paints with words.
And now for the part I was trying to avoid by 'burying the lead' as it were, I made a reconnect with M last night on her day off. I've seen her at work and we're friendly, but there's no time to talk, so I asked her if she'd like to have dinner with me on Sunday. She was into it, flattered I think that I still care about her, so I went by her place at 7, and we strolled to the amazing Sunday Market in Chiang Mai, a teeming mass of vendors, street musicians, food places, crafts people and thousands of folks in the street. We used to go often last year, so it was a bit of a nostalgia tour. We grabbed some food in one of the food areas, noodle soup, a little chicken and some ice cream for dessert. On her day off she doesn't drink, doesn't smoke, and was therefore delightful to be around. It's that other stuff that puts me off, so it was great to see the person who I connected with last year, sans tobacco and alcohol. We still have a great 'connection', and it was nice for both of us to have some time for good solid communication and quality time.
First day of Thai class tomorrow and I'm looking forward to getting started. I didn't care about my lack of language here last year, but this year feels different, I want to get a little deeper than Hello and Thank You. I told the woman who runs the cafe where I have my morning espresso that next time, I'm gonna order in Thai. She said, 'good'. Of course, 'cappucino' is the same in both languages... but hey, small steps. At least I'll ask for milk and sugar with some new words....
When I was in Georgetown last week, I needed a new book to read, so I asked around and found a crazy bookstore that was upstairs over a busy marketplace. There were stacks of English books in no particular order, so I took a look to see if anything was interesting and reasonable priced. The one that jumped out was 'Sons and Lovers' by DH Lawrence, and author I've certainly heard of but have never read, and the price of 5 ringets ($1.70) was just right. A lot of times, places will charge more than the original price of the book, which seems weird, but I guess they can get away with it if people are desperate enough for a book. So I grabbed the Lawrence book, and holy crap, the guy is an amazing writer. His prose is so descriptive, so unique, and I'm sure I'd never get into it were I back home with a computer and television tempting me to abdicate my brain and tune in. At the very least, I understand better why Lawrence is one of the greats. (who knew?) Man, if I could write like that... he paints with words.
And now for the part I was trying to avoid by 'burying the lead' as it were, I made a reconnect with M last night on her day off. I've seen her at work and we're friendly, but there's no time to talk, so I asked her if she'd like to have dinner with me on Sunday. She was into it, flattered I think that I still care about her, so I went by her place at 7, and we strolled to the amazing Sunday Market in Chiang Mai, a teeming mass of vendors, street musicians, food places, crafts people and thousands of folks in the street. We used to go often last year, so it was a bit of a nostalgia tour. We grabbed some food in one of the food areas, noodle soup, a little chicken and some ice cream for dessert. On her day off she doesn't drink, doesn't smoke, and was therefore delightful to be around. It's that other stuff that puts me off, so it was great to see the person who I connected with last year, sans tobacco and alcohol. We still have a great 'connection', and it was nice for both of us to have some time for good solid communication and quality time.
First day of Thai class tomorrow and I'm looking forward to getting started. I didn't care about my lack of language here last year, but this year feels different, I want to get a little deeper than Hello and Thank You. I told the woman who runs the cafe where I have my morning espresso that next time, I'm gonna order in Thai. She said, 'good'. Of course, 'cappucino' is the same in both languages... but hey, small steps. At least I'll ask for milk and sugar with some new words....
Grounding into Chiang Mai
I've been here three nights now, and it feels like a great home away from home. (or is it maybe just 'home'? Om? Having a lovely morning that includes a swim at the Guest House, some chatting with friends on Facebook, and a delicious bowl of noodle soup with a little bit of pork and vegetables (85cents). I also took a walk through the large open-air market and bought a plastic bowl and a metal spoon which I'll keep in the room for future take out food. A lot of the places will sell their curries or what have you in plastic bags, so I'll now have a place to transfer the goodies before digging in. I felt kind of Gandhi-like with my humble purchases, and I can foresee many nice meals getting consumed with that spoon.
Last night was a GREAT party at my hang-out known as the CU Corner. I played an integral part, as it turned out, and it's hard to put a price tag on the feeling that comes from having a role to play. It started out a bit inauspicously as I ended up playing bass for a guy who started the evening's entertainment. Yikes, it was bad, perhaps best summed up by his version of "On the Road Again" in which he repeatedly threw in these three and a half beat measures, making it a bit of a challenge to keep up with. Let's see, bad singer, bad player, what am I doing here? But sometimes you just have to smile and pretend.... take one for the team, as it were, and I took one.
He finally took a break, and I decided to share my original which I had written for the occassion. Bad timing on my part, the crowd was too unfocused and noisy, so it didn't come off as planned. Oh well, another one for the team. But I played a few more songs, people got more and more into it, and now here comes the first surprise of the evening. There was this good looking twenty something dude who was digging my stuff, and then his friends insist that he come up and sing something. I ask if we know any songs in common. He says he's more free form, sings in Spanish (reggaeton style) usually on top of a reggae or latin groove. I say, how bout something like this and start a little two chord montuno Am to E7 salsa style. He starts jamming en espanol, singing about Thailand adventures and such, flashbulbs are now popping and I'm wondering if he's some famous dude or something. A couple of photographers came right up to the front and were shooting.
Turns out he's a performer from Boston, Mass, (born in the Dominican Republic) in Chiang Mai doing some studying for his degree, and we hit it off great. I didn't catch his name, but I'll find out eventually. People were really into the groove and the party started taking off. There was a table full of Thai women who had all decided to dress up like cowgirls, (one was a lady boy) in their plaid shirts and jeans, drinking, clapping along, dancing and having fun, Thai style. Quite a scene.
The best part of the evening was later, when this Thai musician, 'Apple' showed up with his electric guitar and led the set. He was joined by a dude from Chicago, blues player named Jeffro (not a misprint), and when Jeffro was gonna sing a song and started talking through the changes, the third guitarist had that look of 'I don't get it', and he asked if I'd take over. Uh yeah I would, so that became the best set of the night, the three of us on guitar and a guy playing washtub bass. We did some Chicago Blues, some Marley, a couple of originals including Bhang Lassie (big hit with the crowd) and it was super. Sometimes it takes musicians of a certain caliber to know how to fit in with one another, turn it into the proverbial 'well-oiled-machine, and that's what we had going and everyone knew it. Jeff and Dau (the owners) were pretty much thrilled by the vibe, John (whose party it was) was super happy with how it turned out; it was just what he was hoping for, and we all had a blast. Huge fun on a Saturday night.
I had one drink early in the evening, and I'm so glad that I'm not a drinker. As it was, I woke up pretty exhausted from the exertions, and I wonder about the folks who smoke and drink during these events. The next morning must be hell. But I feel super now, and ready for whatever comes next. Perhaps a Thai massage?
Speaking of which, I went for a massage yesterday (and you would too for the $5 that it costs) but I didn't exactly know which of the many studios I should go to. Took a walk down the main drag and a woman asked if I wanted a massage. I said, 'from you?' she said, yes from me. She seemed nice, the place had three mats on the floor and seemed nice so OK. I was looking for a straight up, one hour massage, no happy endings or what have you. (not that there's anything wrong with it, I'm sure, though I've never had the pleasure, so to speak) The massage starts at 6:30 and she's working on my feet. At 6:35 she says 'Do you have a girlfriend?' I say, no. She says do you want me to be your girlfriend?' I say, 'I just came in for a massage. She says, 'OK sorry'. She was very nice, the massage was pretty good, not phenomenal, but it was an interesting foray into the grey area of what goes on around here. And after a year of remarkably little sensual life for me, I plan on getting a lot of massage, and who knows what else. I think the supply and demand thing works both ways. People need their bodies taken care of, people need money to survive; hopefully there's a healthy way that the mutual needs can be met. It's an interesting topic, quite in the forefront here, and I'm sure that I'll have more to say about it as the weeks roll by.
Last night was a GREAT party at my hang-out known as the CU Corner. I played an integral part, as it turned out, and it's hard to put a price tag on the feeling that comes from having a role to play. It started out a bit inauspicously as I ended up playing bass for a guy who started the evening's entertainment. Yikes, it was bad, perhaps best summed up by his version of "On the Road Again" in which he repeatedly threw in these three and a half beat measures, making it a bit of a challenge to keep up with. Let's see, bad singer, bad player, what am I doing here? But sometimes you just have to smile and pretend.... take one for the team, as it were, and I took one.
He finally took a break, and I decided to share my original which I had written for the occassion. Bad timing on my part, the crowd was too unfocused and noisy, so it didn't come off as planned. Oh well, another one for the team. But I played a few more songs, people got more and more into it, and now here comes the first surprise of the evening. There was this good looking twenty something dude who was digging my stuff, and then his friends insist that he come up and sing something. I ask if we know any songs in common. He says he's more free form, sings in Spanish (reggaeton style) usually on top of a reggae or latin groove. I say, how bout something like this and start a little two chord montuno Am to E7 salsa style. He starts jamming en espanol, singing about Thailand adventures and such, flashbulbs are now popping and I'm wondering if he's some famous dude or something. A couple of photographers came right up to the front and were shooting.
Turns out he's a performer from Boston, Mass, (born in the Dominican Republic) in Chiang Mai doing some studying for his degree, and we hit it off great. I didn't catch his name, but I'll find out eventually. People were really into the groove and the party started taking off. There was a table full of Thai women who had all decided to dress up like cowgirls, (one was a lady boy) in their plaid shirts and jeans, drinking, clapping along, dancing and having fun, Thai style. Quite a scene.
The best part of the evening was later, when this Thai musician, 'Apple' showed up with his electric guitar and led the set. He was joined by a dude from Chicago, blues player named Jeffro (not a misprint), and when Jeffro was gonna sing a song and started talking through the changes, the third guitarist had that look of 'I don't get it', and he asked if I'd take over. Uh yeah I would, so that became the best set of the night, the three of us on guitar and a guy playing washtub bass. We did some Chicago Blues, some Marley, a couple of originals including Bhang Lassie (big hit with the crowd) and it was super. Sometimes it takes musicians of a certain caliber to know how to fit in with one another, turn it into the proverbial 'well-oiled-machine, and that's what we had going and everyone knew it. Jeff and Dau (the owners) were pretty much thrilled by the vibe, John (whose party it was) was super happy with how it turned out; it was just what he was hoping for, and we all had a blast. Huge fun on a Saturday night.
I had one drink early in the evening, and I'm so glad that I'm not a drinker. As it was, I woke up pretty exhausted from the exertions, and I wonder about the folks who smoke and drink during these events. The next morning must be hell. But I feel super now, and ready for whatever comes next. Perhaps a Thai massage?
Speaking of which, I went for a massage yesterday (and you would too for the $5 that it costs) but I didn't exactly know which of the many studios I should go to. Took a walk down the main drag and a woman asked if I wanted a massage. I said, 'from you?' she said, yes from me. She seemed nice, the place had three mats on the floor and seemed nice so OK. I was looking for a straight up, one hour massage, no happy endings or what have you. (not that there's anything wrong with it, I'm sure, though I've never had the pleasure, so to speak) The massage starts at 6:30 and she's working on my feet. At 6:35 she says 'Do you have a girlfriend?' I say, no. She says do you want me to be your girlfriend?' I say, 'I just came in for a massage. She says, 'OK sorry'. She was very nice, the massage was pretty good, not phenomenal, but it was an interesting foray into the grey area of what goes on around here. And after a year of remarkably little sensual life for me, I plan on getting a lot of massage, and who knows what else. I think the supply and demand thing works both ways. People need their bodies taken care of, people need money to survive; hopefully there's a healthy way that the mutual needs can be met. It's an interesting topic, quite in the forefront here, and I'm sure that I'll have more to say about it as the weeks roll by.
Artist Retreat?
I don't know what it is about this place Chiang Mai, but it seems to bring out a serious creative surge in my consciousness. I guess some people go to the ocean, some go to the mountains, I seem to go to the city to find my muse. I suppose I could be this focused in Eugene, but between the computer, the phone, the television and the friends, I don't seem to get it done on a consistent basis. Here I'm anonymous, I'm happily without a phone, tv or computer, so the day stretches out and offers many opportunities to create. It works, somehow. (feels like it's my nature)
Of course at the moment, I'm listening to a football game on headphones (Go Ducks!), which totally belies the first paragraph, but I'll allow myself the slight diversion (at least until half time) and then get more serious about digging in to my inner world. Ah yes, the little ironies of life.
But hey, maybe I can use this little chunk of time to see if I can still compose some prose while a soundtrack of college sports is trying to distract me, like that guru I read about who dropped acid and was hardly affected, he just wanted to see what all the hubbub was about. (or something like that). Yeah, that's me alright, a guru (he said mockingly).
I love being in this town, and by town, I mean a city of over a million people in northern Thailand, which is a magnet for westerners looking for a safe and cheap and beautiful place to spend time. Yesterday I took a long walk to find the YMCA, which I hear is the place to go for good language instruction. It turns out that there is a 10 hour course that will start on Tuesday (in a few days) and it meets 5 times for two hours each over a two week period. I'm gonna do it, just to get a little leg up on the language. I'd rather do the 30 hour class, but the next one doesn't begin until mid-January, so this is my best option. For $50, I'll see what I can learn. Got tostart somewhere.
Tonight I'm gonna debut a brand new custom song for my friend John Fengler, who has invited me to be part of his big party. He's a really cool dude, early 50s, spent 30 years as a fire fighter in San Francisco which gives him a great pension (duh!) and he's making a life in Thailand, now in love with a beautiful woman (her name is Kui)who he's bringing home to meet his mom in NY next week. He's a very witty, good looking dude, and we hit it off well. So as is my style, I tried to come up with a little composition to share at the party. It's another of my old time swing things, and here's the lyric.
Some guys seem to have a spark
You know the one that lights up the dark
And Johnny, he's got what it takes
He got style, he got class
He'll smile while he kicks your ass
Yeah Johnny, he's got what it takes
He's got that joie de vivre, believe you me
On the highway to happiness, he's got the key
He's been all around the world
Now he's wrapped all around his girl
Yeah Johnny, he's got what it takes
Me, I don't go in for that fancy jargon
But I swear he's a real life Captain Morgan
He's been all around the world
Now he's wrapped all around his girl
Yeah Johnny, he's got what it takes
Everyone says you'd best beware
Don't fall in love when you're over there
That's an error you shouldn't make
But I'll lay it out and say it strong
Sometimes the cynics are just flat wrong
Kui and Johnny, they got what it takes
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Another thing I've been working on is scat singing, and I wonder why I never tried it before. It's a little risky, but as I listen to myself, it's sounding pretty good, like taking a jazz solo over top of the swing chords that I'm playing. Some guys will play harmonica or whatever, and that never quite felt like the thing for me, but at this point, my rhythm playing is really good and jazzy, and it's just beggin for a solo over top of the harmony. so I'm giving it a shot. Like I say, why did it take me this long to realize the opening. Oh well, whatever... Looking forward to this party tonight, and I might try and rustle up some music students who would pay me a little something something to learn about how music works. I love sharing that information and seeing the light go on for people. (and it would be nice to have a way to earn some baht on the road)
Mickey sent me a quick joke that I've been telling the past couple of days, and it's getting a laugh.
Male rabbit to female rabbit.... 'This won't take long, did it?'
Of course at the moment, I'm listening to a football game on headphones (Go Ducks!), which totally belies the first paragraph, but I'll allow myself the slight diversion (at least until half time) and then get more serious about digging in to my inner world. Ah yes, the little ironies of life.
But hey, maybe I can use this little chunk of time to see if I can still compose some prose while a soundtrack of college sports is trying to distract me, like that guru I read about who dropped acid and was hardly affected, he just wanted to see what all the hubbub was about. (or something like that). Yeah, that's me alright, a guru (he said mockingly).
I love being in this town, and by town, I mean a city of over a million people in northern Thailand, which is a magnet for westerners looking for a safe and cheap and beautiful place to spend time. Yesterday I took a long walk to find the YMCA, which I hear is the place to go for good language instruction. It turns out that there is a 10 hour course that will start on Tuesday (in a few days) and it meets 5 times for two hours each over a two week period. I'm gonna do it, just to get a little leg up on the language. I'd rather do the 30 hour class, but the next one doesn't begin until mid-January, so this is my best option. For $50, I'll see what I can learn. Got tostart somewhere.
Tonight I'm gonna debut a brand new custom song for my friend John Fengler, who has invited me to be part of his big party. He's a really cool dude, early 50s, spent 30 years as a fire fighter in San Francisco which gives him a great pension (duh!) and he's making a life in Thailand, now in love with a beautiful woman (her name is Kui)who he's bringing home to meet his mom in NY next week. He's a very witty, good looking dude, and we hit it off well. So as is my style, I tried to come up with a little composition to share at the party. It's another of my old time swing things, and here's the lyric.
Some guys seem to have a spark
You know the one that lights up the dark
And Johnny, he's got what it takes
He got style, he got class
He'll smile while he kicks your ass
Yeah Johnny, he's got what it takes
He's got that joie de vivre, believe you me
On the highway to happiness, he's got the key
He's been all around the world
Now he's wrapped all around his girl
Yeah Johnny, he's got what it takes
Me, I don't go in for that fancy jargon
But I swear he's a real life Captain Morgan
He's been all around the world
Now he's wrapped all around his girl
Yeah Johnny, he's got what it takes
Everyone says you'd best beware
Don't fall in love when you're over there
That's an error you shouldn't make
But I'll lay it out and say it strong
Sometimes the cynics are just flat wrong
Kui and Johnny, they got what it takes
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Another thing I've been working on is scat singing, and I wonder why I never tried it before. It's a little risky, but as I listen to myself, it's sounding pretty good, like taking a jazz solo over top of the swing chords that I'm playing. Some guys will play harmonica or whatever, and that never quite felt like the thing for me, but at this point, my rhythm playing is really good and jazzy, and it's just beggin for a solo over top of the harmony. so I'm giving it a shot. Like I say, why did it take me this long to realize the opening. Oh well, whatever... Looking forward to this party tonight, and I might try and rustle up some music students who would pay me a little something something to learn about how music works. I love sharing that information and seeing the light go on for people. (and it would be nice to have a way to earn some baht on the road)
Mickey sent me a quick joke that I've been telling the past couple of days, and it's getting a laugh.
Male rabbit to female rabbit.... 'This won't take long, did it?'
Truckin'
From Chiang Mai, after a fairly tough travel day. I stayed up late the last night in Georgetown, then of course I couldn't sleep and had to be up at 5am for a four hour mini-van ride across the border to Hatyai, where I was to catch a plane to Chaing Mai. Part of the reason I was up late is because I was making some music with the 'night guy' at the guest house, and he just wouldn't let me stop. He was a 59 year old, mostly toothless Chinese dude who is nuts about American music, particularly the shmaltzy power ballad stuff that you'd sing in Kareoke. It got comical, as any word you'd say would launch him into a song he knew that had that word in it. I guess you had to be there. It was highly comic.
So I got maybe an hour of sleep, tossing and turning til the van came, and as soon as I stepped inside, my senses were assaulted by the perfume that this overweight German woman was wearing (in an enclosed van for 4 hours). I moved as far away from her as I could, to the back of the van, but it was hideous. Um Frau Tubby, what the fuck are you thinking? I was hating her pretty good, and now I have a cold, which is probably a coincidence, but what the hell, let me hate her some more anyway. I'm not usually ultra sensitive to smells, but this really got to me.
So I got to the airport in Hatyai Thailand with my newly acquired two month visa and a bad case of the sniffles, then had to wait about 4 hours until the plane up north. No internet in the airport so I was left to my own devices, which worked out well, as I spent some creative time working on this comedy idea for a song about language difficulties in the far east. I sat in a cafe, pulled out my notebook and guitar and made myself laugh. Here's the first draft of the text.
It sounds so wrong when you say 'so long'
(he) Do you like a riddle (she) I like a little
(he) I'm a bit rusty (she) I'm a bit lusty
I bought a present. It's pleasant
I feel blessed. You feel my breast?
Can you wear something racy? I have something lacy
Do you have any rice? I have some lice
You're being rude! No you're being lewd!
That's quite a rack. That's quite a lack
You're full of crap. You're full of clap
So flee if you want to be free. Flee if you want to be free.
You do me right when you do me long
You do me light when you do me wrong
I ripped your stocking when I lipped your stocking
I was bereft when she left
and my favorite... Get down on your knees and play
Anyhow, I think you get the drift. It's not done yet, though the material is mostly there, now I need to arrange it in some kind of sequence, perhaps along the lines of a relationship that starts out good but goes south. (Not that I'd have any knowledge or experience about such stuff, but I'll try and imagine....)
The reason I put 'Truckin' as the title is twofold. One because I put on some miles yesterday, and the second is because of that line in the song which came to mind when I saw M for the first time in 9 months.
What in the world ever became of Sweet Jane
She lost her sparkle you know she isn't the same
Livin' on reds, vitamin C and cocaine
All a friend can say is 'ain't it a shame'
She looks bedraggled, as would be the case for a 40 year old woman who smokes and drinks a lot, it takes a toll. I had emailed her 5 days ago letting her know that I'd be showing up on such and such a date, but she was surprised to see me, hadn't checked her email in awhile. She showed up late for work, and just didn't have the sparkle. Eyes not quite clear, skin not quite clear, she just didn't have that healthy feeling, and I feel like I made the right move by sensing it from a distance and letting her know that 'we will see' how things are when I get there, rather than, 'I can't wait to see you'. And no, that's not the reason for her downward turn, it's the alcohol and the tobacco and the denial, and there's really nothing I can do about that. When someone is ready to turn it, they'll turn it. I feel badly for her, as she carries a lot of baggage from a very difficult childhood, and it continues to manifest. I think that this is one time that my heart and brain will trump my dick. (I've been on the opposite end of that calculus too, God knows)
So I'm back in Chiang Mai, and it feels like a place to write and create and have friends and a social life (in many senses). I'm back at the Royal Guest House where I stayed last year, I have a great internet cafe where I can get two hours online for 60 cents, while I drink a cup of coffee from the place next door. I have a place to play music where they dig me. I sat in last night, broke out the new reggae song (Bhang Lassie) and it was a big hit. It's perfect because it's 3 chords so anyone can play along, and people loved it. If you'd like to hear it, you can 'friend' me on Facebook and it's there on my wall.
When I leave here after writing, I'm going to the YMCA which I hear is the best place to take a course in Thai. It's time for that challenge, I hear it's two hours a day (which is about the maximum for my ADD brain), so I'll see about getting started. Tomorrow night is John's big party, for which I've come to town as a guest artist, and I'm working on a new song to break out there in his honor. We hung out some last night and it was great to see him. A mensch, kind of a golden boy type, now deeply in love and engaged to a beautiful woman from here. I wish them the absolute best. Party manana, hopefully I'll be healthy and in good form to perform. I believe that I will, yes I do.
Hey somebody, drop me a comment or something, it's as though nobody reads this. Zero comments, zero comments. Do I need some attention? just a touch, maybe... :-)
So I got maybe an hour of sleep, tossing and turning til the van came, and as soon as I stepped inside, my senses were assaulted by the perfume that this overweight German woman was wearing (in an enclosed van for 4 hours). I moved as far away from her as I could, to the back of the van, but it was hideous. Um Frau Tubby, what the fuck are you thinking? I was hating her pretty good, and now I have a cold, which is probably a coincidence, but what the hell, let me hate her some more anyway. I'm not usually ultra sensitive to smells, but this really got to me.
So I got to the airport in Hatyai Thailand with my newly acquired two month visa and a bad case of the sniffles, then had to wait about 4 hours until the plane up north. No internet in the airport so I was left to my own devices, which worked out well, as I spent some creative time working on this comedy idea for a song about language difficulties in the far east. I sat in a cafe, pulled out my notebook and guitar and made myself laugh. Here's the first draft of the text.
It sounds so wrong when you say 'so long'
(he) Do you like a riddle (she) I like a little
(he) I'm a bit rusty (she) I'm a bit lusty
I bought a present. It's pleasant
I feel blessed. You feel my breast?
Can you wear something racy? I have something lacy
Do you have any rice? I have some lice
You're being rude! No you're being lewd!
That's quite a rack. That's quite a lack
You're full of crap. You're full of clap
So flee if you want to be free. Flee if you want to be free.
You do me right when you do me long
You do me light when you do me wrong
I ripped your stocking when I lipped your stocking
I was bereft when she left
and my favorite... Get down on your knees and play
Anyhow, I think you get the drift. It's not done yet, though the material is mostly there, now I need to arrange it in some kind of sequence, perhaps along the lines of a relationship that starts out good but goes south. (Not that I'd have any knowledge or experience about such stuff, but I'll try and imagine....)
The reason I put 'Truckin' as the title is twofold. One because I put on some miles yesterday, and the second is because of that line in the song which came to mind when I saw M for the first time in 9 months.
What in the world ever became of Sweet Jane
She lost her sparkle you know she isn't the same
Livin' on reds, vitamin C and cocaine
All a friend can say is 'ain't it a shame'
She looks bedraggled, as would be the case for a 40 year old woman who smokes and drinks a lot, it takes a toll. I had emailed her 5 days ago letting her know that I'd be showing up on such and such a date, but she was surprised to see me, hadn't checked her email in awhile. She showed up late for work, and just didn't have the sparkle. Eyes not quite clear, skin not quite clear, she just didn't have that healthy feeling, and I feel like I made the right move by sensing it from a distance and letting her know that 'we will see' how things are when I get there, rather than, 'I can't wait to see you'. And no, that's not the reason for her downward turn, it's the alcohol and the tobacco and the denial, and there's really nothing I can do about that. When someone is ready to turn it, they'll turn it. I feel badly for her, as she carries a lot of baggage from a very difficult childhood, and it continues to manifest. I think that this is one time that my heart and brain will trump my dick. (I've been on the opposite end of that calculus too, God knows)
So I'm back in Chiang Mai, and it feels like a place to write and create and have friends and a social life (in many senses). I'm back at the Royal Guest House where I stayed last year, I have a great internet cafe where I can get two hours online for 60 cents, while I drink a cup of coffee from the place next door. I have a place to play music where they dig me. I sat in last night, broke out the new reggae song (Bhang Lassie) and it was a big hit. It's perfect because it's 3 chords so anyone can play along, and people loved it. If you'd like to hear it, you can 'friend' me on Facebook and it's there on my wall.
When I leave here after writing, I'm going to the YMCA which I hear is the best place to take a course in Thai. It's time for that challenge, I hear it's two hours a day (which is about the maximum for my ADD brain), so I'll see about getting started. Tomorrow night is John's big party, for which I've come to town as a guest artist, and I'm working on a new song to break out there in his honor. We hung out some last night and it was great to see him. A mensch, kind of a golden boy type, now deeply in love and engaged to a beautiful woman from here. I wish them the absolute best. Party manana, hopefully I'll be healthy and in good form to perform. I believe that I will, yes I do.
Hey somebody, drop me a comment or something, it's as though nobody reads this. Zero comments, zero comments. Do I need some attention? just a touch, maybe... :-)
Georgetown farewell....
Well you can't win 'em all; I tried to go visit the botanical garden which I hear is a beautiful jungle spot with mucho monkeys, but the bus just never came. Gave up after an hour. I have just tonight left here in Georgetown, then catch a 5am cross-the-border van back into Thailand with my two-month visa, and a 1:30 flight from Hatyai to Chiang Mai. Looking forward to the cooler weather, the reconnect with some friends, and a chance to rent a place for a month (or more) and see what happens. I will also see M and I have exactly no idea about what that will be like. There is a pretty big range of options, and I'm guessing that we will be 'friends' (whatever that means, eh?)
It's been a pretty interesting stay here; great and cheap food, as expected, a colorful mix of Chinese temples, mosques, Indian restaurants, lots of street life, a healthy mix of tourists, most here on a visa run of one sort or another, all stearming together in the tropical heat. Shade is a big commodity, because under cover, with a fan spinning above is plenty comfortable. I was in a large shaded food court this afternoon with about 12 different food vendors, a central place that serves iced tea and iced coffee and juices and then forty or fifty tables filled with the typical cross section of Georgetown society. It was like the old 5th St Market used to be, a perfect place to hang out, grab some food, sit with friends and let the hours go by. Great vibe in there. No walls, just a large pitched roof above, ceiling fans and good energy.
Probably the highlight of the visit here was connecting with a great couple, Giovanni from Italy 58, and his wife Asami from Japan, 38. They are long term travelers, loosely based in Italy, but they spend months and years at a time in Asia, often in the 'rainbow' circuit, which is a descendant of the hippie movement of the 60s and 70s. I had pulled out my guitar one night in the guest house and they immediately gravitated in my direction, and we've been spending time together for most of the week, sharing meals and music, laughs and ideas. They are both deep thinkers, vegetarians (for the most part) and it's an easy connection. They told me about a Shambala festival outside of Chiang Mai in February, organized by some Japanese hipsters, and if I'm in the area, I'll go there.
Giovanni has that typical Italian way of expressing himself with lots of gestures, 'mamma mias' and facial expressions. He studies a lot online, is fairly paranoid about chem-trails, 'the illuminati' and other sinister plots, but it doesn't dominate the interaction. He's a strong proponent of the energy which happens in the rainbow community, 'the music is fantastic, the young people, mamma mia, amazing'. This in contrast to his disdain for the typical traveler of today, who doesn't really connect, gets into his little laptop world and seems oblivious to the otside world. I goof on him some, 'Yeah things were much better in the old days', but it's a good solid connection, and chances are good that this isn't the last we'll see of one another. Asami is super cool, kind of a darker skinned Japanese woman, looks almost Tibetan, and a total delight to be around. She gets the jokes and we've been doing a lot of laughing together. Mutual respect, great interaction, it's kind of why we travel, right? Yeah!
Lots of interesting characters running around town, and for some reason, all I have to do is pull out the guitar and here they come. The other day I was playing a bit on the main drag and this young guy comes by and asks if I play flamenco. No, but I did buy the guitar in Sevilla and it's a flamenco guitar, why, do you play? and I offer him the guitar. He's a great player, got the long flamenco finger nails (I should have guessed) and he made it sound really good. And as so often happens, he was envious of my ability to just sing and play so easily (he has a hard time singing), and I was wishing I could play like he could. It's not envy, more like a natural appreciation of a skill that the other possesses and we lack. If he could sing like me, if I could play like him, WOW! Gathering the sparks to make a fire. He was another Italian, Rafael 25 who is working as a tour guide out of Phuket. (pronounced poo ket, for any of you wise guys out there :-)
Final character is David, 62 out of East London, but been in India and Asia for decades, though he sounds like an 'east ender' with that unmistakable accent. He's fit, bald, looks like Patrick Stewart, former junkie, survived, great with a story, does some body work, loves the women, a million stories and very entertaining. Real good looking guy in his silk shirt from Nepal, holding forth with one tale after another, no one can entertain like a Brit or an Irishman for my money. We hit it off real well, and when we see each other, we tend to sit down for a few minutes and have at it. Once again it's that mutual respect thing.
I've had a nice week at the Pin Seng guest house; they like me, call me 'Mr Guitar Man' (with a Chinese accent) and enjoy it when I pull it out and make a little music in the lobby. I've been paying $7/night and I'd come back here next time I'm in Georgetown. It's not exactly home, but it's comfortable and colorful. Glad I came and ready to experience the next chapter....
Just grabbed my guitar to take a final spin through town. Walked into a cool gallery, young artists, one of whom had a ukulele, and we jammed, had a blast, the universal language and all that stuff. That's the magic of traveling with a guitar, all I have to do is pull it out and the world opens up and invites in the folks who respond to music... my folks, as it turns out. What a gift!
It's been a pretty interesting stay here; great and cheap food, as expected, a colorful mix of Chinese temples, mosques, Indian restaurants, lots of street life, a healthy mix of tourists, most here on a visa run of one sort or another, all stearming together in the tropical heat. Shade is a big commodity, because under cover, with a fan spinning above is plenty comfortable. I was in a large shaded food court this afternoon with about 12 different food vendors, a central place that serves iced tea and iced coffee and juices and then forty or fifty tables filled with the typical cross section of Georgetown society. It was like the old 5th St Market used to be, a perfect place to hang out, grab some food, sit with friends and let the hours go by. Great vibe in there. No walls, just a large pitched roof above, ceiling fans and good energy.
Probably the highlight of the visit here was connecting with a great couple, Giovanni from Italy 58, and his wife Asami from Japan, 38. They are long term travelers, loosely based in Italy, but they spend months and years at a time in Asia, often in the 'rainbow' circuit, which is a descendant of the hippie movement of the 60s and 70s. I had pulled out my guitar one night in the guest house and they immediately gravitated in my direction, and we've been spending time together for most of the week, sharing meals and music, laughs and ideas. They are both deep thinkers, vegetarians (for the most part) and it's an easy connection. They told me about a Shambala festival outside of Chiang Mai in February, organized by some Japanese hipsters, and if I'm in the area, I'll go there.
Giovanni has that typical Italian way of expressing himself with lots of gestures, 'mamma mias' and facial expressions. He studies a lot online, is fairly paranoid about chem-trails, 'the illuminati' and other sinister plots, but it doesn't dominate the interaction. He's a strong proponent of the energy which happens in the rainbow community, 'the music is fantastic, the young people, mamma mia, amazing'. This in contrast to his disdain for the typical traveler of today, who doesn't really connect, gets into his little laptop world and seems oblivious to the otside world. I goof on him some, 'Yeah things were much better in the old days', but it's a good solid connection, and chances are good that this isn't the last we'll see of one another. Asami is super cool, kind of a darker skinned Japanese woman, looks almost Tibetan, and a total delight to be around. She gets the jokes and we've been doing a lot of laughing together. Mutual respect, great interaction, it's kind of why we travel, right? Yeah!
Lots of interesting characters running around town, and for some reason, all I have to do is pull out the guitar and here they come. The other day I was playing a bit on the main drag and this young guy comes by and asks if I play flamenco. No, but I did buy the guitar in Sevilla and it's a flamenco guitar, why, do you play? and I offer him the guitar. He's a great player, got the long flamenco finger nails (I should have guessed) and he made it sound really good. And as so often happens, he was envious of my ability to just sing and play so easily (he has a hard time singing), and I was wishing I could play like he could. It's not envy, more like a natural appreciation of a skill that the other possesses and we lack. If he could sing like me, if I could play like him, WOW! Gathering the sparks to make a fire. He was another Italian, Rafael 25 who is working as a tour guide out of Phuket. (pronounced poo ket, for any of you wise guys out there :-)
Final character is David, 62 out of East London, but been in India and Asia for decades, though he sounds like an 'east ender' with that unmistakable accent. He's fit, bald, looks like Patrick Stewart, former junkie, survived, great with a story, does some body work, loves the women, a million stories and very entertaining. Real good looking guy in his silk shirt from Nepal, holding forth with one tale after another, no one can entertain like a Brit or an Irishman for my money. We hit it off real well, and when we see each other, we tend to sit down for a few minutes and have at it. Once again it's that mutual respect thing.
I've had a nice week at the Pin Seng guest house; they like me, call me 'Mr Guitar Man' (with a Chinese accent) and enjoy it when I pull it out and make a little music in the lobby. I've been paying $7/night and I'd come back here next time I'm in Georgetown. It's not exactly home, but it's comfortable and colorful. Glad I came and ready to experience the next chapter....
Just grabbed my guitar to take a final spin through town. Walked into a cool gallery, young artists, one of whom had a ukulele, and we jammed, had a blast, the universal language and all that stuff. That's the magic of traveling with a guitar, all I have to do is pull it out and the world opens up and invites in the folks who respond to music... my folks, as it turns out. What a gift!
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